How to build a gaming PC for beginners: All the parts you need
Apr 28, · Building your own computer is actually pretty simple. Don’t be afraid to dive right in — all you’ll need is a screwdriver, patience, and the ability to follow simple instructions. This process is about building desktop PCs, of course. It’s nowhere near as easy to build your own laptop. The motherboard dictates the physical form factor and size of your PC build, but it also determines what other pieces of hardware the computer can use. For example, the motherboard establishes the power of the processor it can handle, the memory technology (DDR4, DDR3, DDR2, etc.) and number of modules that can be installed, and the storage.
I built my first PC from scratch in the summer of I was literally bleeding from a cut on my hand by the end of it, which my YouTube guides said was common….
Eventually, I got it working, and the PC is awesome…But getting there was a nightmare. One point I want to make, which Maiberg acknowledges, is that building a PC really has gotten easier over the past 20 years.
Some motherboards had hidden issues between various PCI slots that prevented them from being used at the same time. RAM incompatibility was common, you had to install AGP drivers for decent graphics performance, what do breast cancer lumps look like on ultrasound even installing Windows required manual intervention to load third party storage drivers much of the time.
The Intel i chipset was a debacle for the company. The i lacked an AGP slot and its integrated graphics delivered a mediocre 2D image that left even a high-end monitor looking like a thin film of grease had been smeared across the screen.
Athlon and Athlon XP cores of the day were easy to chip. The first time I bought a 32MB Radeon card, I wound up having to cobble together a driver out of bits and pieces of other drivers, none of which worked individually and some of which would permanently hose a Windows 98 installation if you attempted to uninstall them using the official ATI uninstaller.
The less said about USB 1. Some of the issues that Maiberg raises could be more easily communicated. Others, like the dizzying array of available hardware, are more difficult to address. Motherboard and graphics manufacturers each divide their product families into addressable segments, then sell boards according to the value-added features they pack in at any given price point.
This inevitably leads to customer confusion. One could even argue that this state of affairs results in fewer people getting involved with PC gaming, which leads to lower amounts of revenue than would be the case if all the involved companies agreed to launch fewer products and hewed more closely to common standards. Also, their websites are atrocious, and offer no help in picking parts.
They just work. Boutique builders could do a much better job of guiding and helping would-be PC buyers pick hardware, but virtually all of them offer pre-built boxes with standard component with the option to upgrade one particular item — the GPU, for instance. Ultimately, I think Maiberg actually makes a lot of good points about how difficult it is to get into PC gaming and there may well be an unmet need for a gaming box that solves some of the issues he ran into.
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It's easier than you might think
Feb 10, · How To Build A Gaming PC In Step-By-Step Guide. Putting together a gaming PC build can be an intimidating process, but it doesn't have to be so hard if you know what you're doing. Mar 12, · To build your perfect gaming PC, you must first decide what you want it to do, how much you want to spend, and what kind of parts will make it tiktokdat.com: Marshall Honorof.
Learning how to build a PC is daunting, but piecing all the components together is easier than it may look. For the most part, building a computer boils down to knowing where to plug in your components and cables. If you are already familiar with the overall process of building a PC, you can jump to a specific step using the list below:.
This guide is all about piecing components together to create a functional machine. There are a couple of safety issues to discuss before we actually start ripping open those boxes. The same force that lets you shock your friends when you wear wool socks can also fry components in a heartbeat. Fortunately, static is easy to all but eliminate with a few simple steps.
One simple solution is to purchase an anti-static wristband. One end wraps around your wrist, and the other clips somewhere on the computer case, keeping the wearer constantly grounded. Touching the case frequently with the PSU plugged in and powered off achieves the same effect. This guide serves as a general overview of the process, and the instructions packed with your parts may vary from our suggestions. When they do, default to the included instructions and use our guide as a road map for the overall project.
Preparing the case is the easy part. Instructions for the specific case you purchased should introduce you to its basic layout as well as list special instructions regarding component installation.
Lay down the case in your work area and remove the side panel. For most PC cases, this means the left-side panel when viewed from the front.
This panel provides access to the case interior. Many cases have permanent internal wiring that becomes problematic later on. The first component to make its way into the case should be the power supply PSU. It is typically located at the rear of the case, usually in the bottom or top corner. When in doubt, the slot is easily located by searching for a square opening with screw holes in at least two corners. You can install the power supply with the fan facing up or down.
In most computer cases, pointing the fan down is ideal. All you need to do is look at your case. Most modern cases are built for this type of installation. If your case manual says something different, however, we recommend following that. There are two main power supply variants: Standard and modular. Modular PSUs have cables that detach from the main unit to avoid clutter. This temporarily keeps them out of the way while we install the remaining components.
In fact, depending on your case and cooler, you may not be able to assemble your system with the motherboard already installed. It is, of course, attached to the back of the motherboard. There are numerous pins on the CPU and motherboard, and bending any one of them could render that component kaput. Carefully remove the motherboard from its anti-static bag and set it on a hard, flat, non-metal surface such as a wooden desk, or the top of the motherboard box itself.
Also, make sure there are no sources of dust or liquid nearby. However, there are some subtle differences in the process depending on who made your CPU. Instead of jutting from the processor, pins now reside in modern Intel sockets on motherboards, making CPU installation easy. This part of the socket is called the contact array. Absolutely do not bend or touch these pins! When clamped down, the end of the load lever tucks under a hook to keep everything in place.
When you unbox your motherboard, the contact array will be covered with a piece of plastic. First, open the load plate. Do this by gently pushing down on the load arm and moving it out sideways from under the hook, and then raising it up all the way. At this point, the plastic piece will come loose. As shown above, the CPU itself should have a small half-circle notch on each side of the chip. With the contacts facing down, there should be only one direction where the notches line up with the notches in the socket.
Pick up your processor by the sides, clamping it lightly between your fingertips. Here, you want to avoid touching the bottom of the processor. With the processor in hand, line up the notches or use the small gold triangle in the corner to line up the socket and set the processor in. The processor should slot in without issues. Again, very gently do this.
Use the load arm on the side to lower the plate over the chip, then push down and re-clip the arm under the hook once again. This requires a fair amount of pressure, so make sure the chip is properly seated before pressing down. Remember, the notches in the processor should align with those in the socket. If in doubt, start again and double-check. The load arm on the socket slightly shifts the holes underneath, gripping the pins on the processor when pressed all the way down.
That ensures the holes for the pins are wide open. All you need to do is line that triangle up with a second triangle cut into the slot. Again, pick up the processor by the sides gently, avoiding the bottom. Once the processor sits comfortably in the slot, simply press the arm down until it clicks into place and locks in. This last step can be intimidating since it requires a fair amount of pressure to lock in place.
The direction is easy enough. Slot choice depends on a few factors, one of which is how you purchased RAM. However, you likely purchased two identical RAM sticks, a common package called a dual-channel configuration. The system can use both sticks as if they were a single block of RAM but accesses them individually, providing a modest boost to memory performance.
You should install these sticks in channels slots with matching colors, usually labeled A1 and B1, though sometimes A2 and B2 are preferable. Now that we know the proper slot and direction, the next part is easy. Push the plastic wings at either end of the slot down and outward some motherboards only have one then place the stick in the slot sticking straight up.
Push down firmly until the RAM clicks into the slot, and the plastic wings click back in and clamp the ends of the sticks. We put together a more detailed guide for how to install RAM if you need additional information. Most modern cases have built-in, non-removable spacers between the back wall and motherboard, known as standoffs.
They act as a ground for the motherboard while preventing the connections on the back from shorting. Some cases have removable stand-offs you must manually install. Be firm but gentle. Depending on the case and motherboard combination, pairing the two requires between six and 10 screws. You may find that not all holes match up with standoffs underneath. Drop a screw into a hole to see if it threads right away. Like every set of screws, the first step is seating the screws and giving them a couple of precursory turns.
Then, proceed in a star pattern, tightening each screw a little at a time. You only need enough torque to hold the board in place without wiggling. This pin connector powers both the motherboard and the CPU. However, some boards have a second 4-pin or 8-pin connector for the processor, which resides near your CPU, typically in the top corner. Second, connect the case plugs and buttons to the motherboard.
A double-wide row of pins — the location of which will be noted in your manual — runs the USB ports, buttons for reset and power, and activity LEDs for power and storage. These small cables run in a bundle from wherever the ports reside in the case. Proper installation can be difficult, however, due to their size. If you have a magnifying glass or a set of tweezers, now is a great time to use them. Some motherboards include an adapter that bridges these jumpers to the right connections on your motherboard.
Otherwise, installing them is as simple as matching the labels on the pins with the labels on the connections. The USB header connecting to your front-facing motherboard ports will be on its own. This header has a notch on one side that should clearly indicate which direction it plugs in. With the motherboard now tethered to your case, you can wipe the sweat of concentration off your brow.
The process varies, however, given the different brands and generations. The same is true for third-party coolers, which use a proprietary installation bracket. Following the included instructions is crucial to your PC-building success. Every cooler needs thermal paste. AMD and Intel apply it to their coolers in the factory, but third-party coolers require manual pasting.
When directed by the instructions, simply apply a single silver dot — about the size of a small pea — right in the center of the chip. After squishing the chip and cooler together, try not to wiggle or twist too much, to ensure a smooth, full connection. But the full fan system still needs power.
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